Review: Angelina, Mall of the Emirates

Date: 2015-02-10
In a nutshell
Between the rows of shops in Mall of the Emirates, Angelina is popular with local families and couples. This open restaurant adds a touch of class to the mall-dining experience, from its well-dressed staff to the oud-scented hand sanitiser between courses.

Food
The scent of chestnuts is synonymous with the winter season for many cultures. In Dubai, the sweet scent of roasted, candied chestnuts wafts down the malls, while in the south of France, they are being harvested and celebrated in festivals before being turned into all manner of goodies. It is this spirit that Angelina, renowned Parisian patisserie and restaurant, has brought to the cooler months of Dubai with its delicious new winter menu. Angelina has a particularly chestnutty heritage, its Mont Blanc dessert recognised internationally, but we’ll get to that later.
 
To start, let the chestnut soup with plain whipped cream introduce you to a new perspective on this often sweet ingredient. Theatre is incorporated into the serving, as the soup is served in a jug and poured over a dollop of cream in the bowl. Foamy with a shimmering appeal, this delicately flavoured and textured appetiser suits fans of earthy tastes like mushrooms, but who perhaps find truffle a little overpowering.
 
Pan-fried scallops like soft pastilles, served with black venere rice and alfa alfa sprouts, present a healthy treat if that’s the route you want to go down – an alternative to the fast-food options often found in the mall. Or invest in the same calories with a delectable and luxurious afternoon tea.
 
Following the signature chestnut specialities, it was time to taste the Mont Blanc. This sticky dessert is certainly one for sharing, consisting of a mountain of sickly crème de marron on a meringue base, with strawberry confit in the centre. Served upright, the waiter then traditionally tips it on its head to ensure you enjoy all the flavours together.
 
Why not try it with a No.226 cocoa tea if you have no further room for hot chocolate. A healthy blend of China and Ceylon teas with hints of cocoa, candied almond and rose petal, this tea would be enough to satisfy many sweet-toothed customers without any syrups or sprinkles. Although good luck avoiding the temptation presented by the trolley of gooey viennoiseries, pastries and macaroons.
 
How much?
While Angelina is on the more expensive side, at approximately Dhs.200 per person for two courses and soft drinks, its portions are plentiful. Even if you order a salad, its Salad Tuileries (meaning ‘tiles’) are made from curly, wafer-thin slices of colourful, nutritious vegetables rather than a mountain of leaves.

Atmosphere
An oasis of calm in the mall, this level isn’t overcrowded or noisy. No amazing views, but it’s easy enough to forget your surroundings and become absorbed in the dining experience.
 
Check it out
Angelina, Mall of the Emirates, 04 379 4560 and The Dubai Mall, 04 442 9112
Facebook: @AngelinaDxb; Twitter & Instagram: @AngelinaDubai

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