Beirut
It’s true what they say: you haven’t experienced the Middle East properly until you have been to Beirut. Although quite similar to Dubai in the sense that the city is modern and cosmopolitan, the Lebanese capital has much more soul – after all, its people have experienced mighty highs and lows, and there’s no doubt that Beirut feels more ‘local’ so to speak.
A day in the city can take you anywhere from the beach to the mountains; from the infamous Green Line and buildings peppered with bullet holes to the vibrant neighbourhoods of Gemmayze or Achrafieh. One thing is certain; Beirut residents are tremendously friendly and live for the moment. Get ready for fun times.
Beirut, old & new
You can savour the whole city with a leisurely two to three-hour walk through the historical heart of Beirut. See where old and new collide as you stroll along Place D’Etoile, where Parisian-style boulevards stand alongside Roman ruins. Admire the beautifully restored 2nd century Roman Baths and the five spectacular Roman columns next to the Maronite Cathedral of Saint George; walk through the fragrant Gibran Khalil Gibran Garden (named after the Lebanese-American poet), stopping to admire the modern sculptures and a bust of Gibran himself; and then browse the art collections at the Robert Mouawad Private Museum.
Martyr’s Square is a focal point in the heart of Downtown Beirut which commemorates the Lebanese nationalists who died during World War I and is the final resting place of the late Prime Minister, Rafic Hariri. Beirut is also scattered with colourful gardens dotted with park benches, perfect for soaking up the atmosphere of the city.
Walking tour
A handy way of exploring the city’s landmarks is through a walking tour mobile app (a popular one you can purchase is GPSmyCity.com). These apps come with detailed route maps and navigation features to guide you from one sight to the next. Plus, all the data is built in, so you can use it without internet access or a data plan. Perfect for a short break in Beirut.
Al Hamra Street
One of Beirut’s busiest neighbourhoods is Al Hamra Street. Lined with everything from one-off shops and restaurants to international franchises, this area is a must visit if you want to bag some unique souvenirs, fashion or accessories. Lose yourself in one of the many thrift stores that sell vintage t-shirts and other items; bookstores that sell English-language literature by some of Lebanon’s finest writers; or venture into the popular Henry’s Handmade shop, which lives up to its name so much that its banner outside is handwritten in marker pen. Here, you’ll find plenty of jewellery – ranging from leather bracelets to silver rings – made by a man called, surprise surprise, Henry.
Eat like the locals
When your stomach starts growling, you won’t be short of places to indulge. Cafe Hamra offers everything from Lebanese cuisine to burgers, while T-Marbouta is known for its hummus. Meanwhile, Cafe Younes – which opened in 1935 – continues to operate as a small family-run eatery. One place you shouldn’t miss is Tawlet, for its kebbeh, freekeh and Armenian pastrami. Every day a different cook from a different area creates a traditional menu from a region of Lebanon. Tawlet also organises the Souk el Tayeb farmers market, held every Saturday at the Beirut Souk (or on the Waterfront during summer months). A mouthwatering event!
Pubbing at Al Hamra
If you’re in Al Hamra by day, stay into the evening and visit one of the pubs or shisha cafes that line the streets. However, if you only have time for one, make sure it’s February 30. As the name suggests, it’s out of the ordinary. The decor is topsy-turvy, where you feel as though your world has been turned upside down. No couch or bar stall, meanwhile, is like the other. From mopeds to barber’s chairs, it has it all.
Discovering Uruguay Street
There’s always going to be a place to see and be seen, and downtown’s Uruguay is where Beirut’s cool cats venture out to. Located directly behind Samir Kassir Square, this strip is home to bistro bars, such as Cassis, Tinto Tapas Bar and Patrick’s.
Chilling in Gemmayze
For something a little more relaxed, Gemmayze would be your best bet. Beirut’s artistic bohemian quarter is an old district full of narrow streets and beautiful historic buildings. Reminiscent of the ultra-trendy bar districts of London, Barcelona and Paris, this is the place to go ‘bar-hopping’ with a group of friends. Qahwet Laila is known for its coffee and great shisha hangouts, while pubs such as Spoons, Porto, Hemmingway’s and Rocks are known for their chilled vibe, where barmen chat with punters and all sorts of music – from Latin to alternative – is heard blasting out onto the streets. For something a little ‘out there’ (and if you have the courage), head to a place called Drink & Sing, which does what it says on the box, so to speak.
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