Art and artists have taken the lead in this rediscovery. At 50 Moganshan Lu, across the river from the Shanghai Railway Station, a maze of Concession-era lofts and warehouses now serve as an eclectic assemblage of studios and galleries. ShanghART was one of the first to move in and Art Scene Warehouse is one of the largest, representing more than 40 painters, sculptors and photographers. It’s easy to spend an afternoon here, wandering among the galleries and cafes. A former flour mill at nearby 120 Moganshan Lu hosts the non-profit Island6 . Across the river and two bends downstream, Creek Art (101 Chang’an Lu; 6380 4150) combines contemporary art and modern dining with fine views of the city.

Further north and east are two Hongkou district neighbourhoods that receive less attention than the grand sights at People’s Square or Lujiazui.