One of the prettiest and liveliest of the water towns, Tongli is worth at least one day by itself – although it can be combined with Luzhi. Before 1985 the old town was only accessible by boat. It is fed by a river which has been turned into 15 canals and is surrounded by five lakes. The many Ming and Qing buildings are adorned by intricate tile patterns on their roofs. Three old stone bridges – colloquially called Peace, Luck and Lasting Celebration – form a circuit, around which tourists and brides-to-be are borne in a wedding sedan chair accompanied by high-pitched reed instruments. At the canal junction in the centre, a fisherman demonstrates cormorant catching for tourists from his boat. A gondola tour costs ¥60 per boat. Other highlights include the pretty Tuisi (Retreat and Reflection) Garden (¥40) and the sumptuous Chen family residence (¥5). The most incongruous of attractions is the Chinese Sex Culture Museum (¥20), which moved to a former primary school in Tongli from Shanghai in early 2004, although a small branch has reopened back in town. Entry to Tongli is ¥80.

Luzhi, 25km east of Suzhou, has 41 bridges and is also surrounded by five lakes. A bus from Tongli costs about ¥12. Luizhi’s Buddhist Baoshen Temple was originally built in 503AD but rebuilt in the Song Dynasty after being destroyed during the Tang Dynasty.

It’s well worth getting to Tongli, and indeed any of the other water towns, early enough in order to appreciate them without the crowds who flock there by mid-morning. Locals wash clothes and pots and pans, and even prepare food on the steps by the canals. Early-morning markets are also worth visiting, if you have a strong stomach. Be prepared to see sights including pigs’ heads, scooped-out turtles and jumping frogs.­­­­