Tbilisi is the beating heart of the South Caucasus and it’s where Georgians travel to for action and excitement. The city packs both history and modernity into a smallish valley that’s flanked by dramatic hillsides on either side of the Mtkvari River. The capital is striving to move into the 21st century after a tumultuous political past and the streets are bustling with pedestrians, construction debris and the constant tooting from well-worn cars. But there’s a charm to Tbilisi that begs to be explored; hidden, cobbled streets open up to beautiful green parks, and dimly lit basements hide some of the liveliest and best restaurants in the country. It’s unique and pulsing, and well worth a visit.

Old Town
Most visitors gravitate towards the Old Town as it’s the most picturesque and interesting part to explore. Situated in the shadow of the Narikala Fortress, the Old Town is an assortment of twisting alleys full of hidden courtyards and tumbledown houses, with outrageous wooden balconies that lean at precarious angles. Shisha cafes, restaurants, hostels, and boutique stores stand side by side with graffiti-covered walls, derelict buildings, churches and synagogues. While away your time at the base of the fortress and watch the locals go about their day. Religion unites its people and you’ll find Sioni Cathedral packed on the weekends.

City views
The bow-shaped pedestrian Peace Bridge acts as a symbol of Tbilisi’s strive towards modernity. The glass and steel footbridge over the Mtkvari River offers a unique view of Metekhi Church, Narikala Fortress, Mother Georgia and the statue of the city’s founder Vakhtang Gorgasali.

Aerial tramway
In June 2012 a new aerial tramway opened in Tbilisi. It connects the newly constructed Rike Park at the foot of the Peace Bridge with Narikala, a fortress that dominates the Old Town skyline. The journey takes you across the Mtkvari River, over the recently renovated rooftops and buildings of the Old Town, and up to Narikala Fortress in just under two minutes.

Narikala Fortress
Narikala was first built back in the fourth century when it acted as a Persian citadel. History, however, has not been kind to the fort which has been blown up, rebuilt, and blown up again more times than can be counted. Its foundations were rebuilt in the eighth century by the Arab emirs but a huge explosion of Russian ammunition that was stored inside its walls practically destroyed everything including the church within the fort, which was then only rebuilt in the last decade.

Mother Georgia
From outside Narikala Fortress entrance, you can follow the path to the statue of Mother Georgia, a huge aluminium statue of a woman holding a sword in one hand and a cup of wine in the other – the archetypal metaphor for Georgia – proudly welcoming guests but passionately defending its land.

Mount Mtatsminda
Mtatsminda is likely to be the first thing you see, especially if you’re arriving into the capital at night, not so much for its green vista, but more for the 210m-high red TV mast that looms over the city like a brightly-lit Christmas tree. Alongside the mast, however, is Mtatsminda Park which spreads over the hilltop, with plenty of funfair rides and attractions, and expanses to walk. The best views are from the giant Ferris wheel that sits next to the TV mast. If you need a pit stop, head to the small outdoor cafe next to the dinosaur park which serves up delicious plates of Khachapuri cheese pies and stews.

Weekend flea market
At weekends, Tbilisi hosts a charming flea market by the banks of the river. You can find almost anything at the Dry Bridge Market (open from 8am to 2pm), but the most interesting stalls are the ones selling Soviet memorabilia. For a few Lari you can pick up medals the Soviet state once awarded Georgian citizens for their bravery.

Sulphur baths
Nothing quite prepares you for the experience of a Georgian sulphur bath, but a dip in the hot springs of Abanotubani is a popular pastime in the capital of this former Soviet state. A domed bathhouse – with its beautiful tiled surroundings, wreathed in the pungent smell of sulphur from the hot springs beneath the city – can be found with public (3 GEL) or private (20-50 GEL) spaces. Head down the dimly-lit staircase and you’ll be shown to the bathing area. Then, strip down to your birthday suit and enjoy.You can also experience a vigorous scrub down from one of the stern-faced workers that’s sure to revive you if the sulphur scent has knocked you out.

Pies & dumplings
Georgian cuisine is a delightfully hearty affair with bread and cheese a staple in every diet. Head to Marjanishvili Street and, opposite the Old City Wall, you’ll find Shemoikhede Genatsvale, a traditional Georgian restaurant that’s popular with both tourists and locals. Head to the basement, follow the loud music and you’ll arrive in an underground lair filled with people guzzling beer and wine accompanied by a mound of tennis-ball sized dumplings (Khinkali) filled with potato, meat and mushrooms. Order Khachapuri, Georgia’s ubiquitous pies – stuffed with melty curd cheese and served sliced, like a fat double-crust pizza – and you’ll be happy and, stuffed, for hours.