Kreuzberg, more than any other district, embodies Berlin’s ‘poor but sexy’ ethos. Famous for its Turkish immigrants, May Day riots, and squatters, Kreuzberg is divided into two distinct areas, both named after old postal codes. In the south is the larger, more genteel SW61. Further north and east lies the smaller, more alternative SO36, from which the district’s quintessential image derives. The population of SW61 is older, whiter and less anarchic, with a sizeable lesbian community. SO36, especially the riverside neighbourhood around Schlesische Strasse, has become quite hip of late. While the Turkish shops and ageing anarchists remain, an influx of students, musicians and scenesters is making its mark on the area’s atmosphere – and rents.