Read the papers and you may think of Neukölln as a seething ghetto on the constant verge of riots: immigrant youth gangs, rampant unemployment, seething discontent. But turn up for an apartment viewing in northern Neukölln and the only fighting you’ll see is among the throngs of artsy young folk battling fiercely for the chance to live here. Neukölln does have high unemployment, does have social problems, and does have seriously troubled schools, but it also has a great deal to offer those who seek spacious, beautiful flats at low prices and enjoy a multicultural, somewhat alternative atmosphere.