Schöneberg lies between Kreuzberg and Charlottenburg, both geographically and in spirit. The district enjoys a mixture of the former’s vibrant atmosphere and the latter’s residential grace. Schöneberg varies more from neighbourhood to neighbourhood than any other part of Berlin. The quiet streets and elegant facades of the Bayerisches Viertel have more in common with nearby Wilmersdorf than with the bustling cafe culture of Nollendorfplatz, which has been home to a thriving gay scene since the days of Christopher Isherwood. Just south of Nollendorfplatz, an attractive residential area centres on Winterfeldtplatz, twice-weekly the host to Berlin’s largest market. Further south lies Friedenau, a slower-paced semi-suburban bohemian district of art nouveau houses. Perhaps because of this diversity, Schöneberg’s personality is hard to pin down and it remains one of Berlin’s lower-profile districts – but also especially rewarding to get to know.